The Carers

Whenever we travel, we’re left with a series of anecdotes that tell us about a place. It’s when those anecdotes have a theme that travel starts to get interesting. For me, the theme of Australia so far, and Tassie specifically, is one of caring for the natural world. In the last post, I had the grisly task of trying to lightly describe the roadkill situation in Tassie. Normally, roadkill is not a thing that people associate with caring for the natural world. However, a certain population of Australians, literally called carers, have lent a reassuring light to a seemingly bleak reality.

Aus has a unique distinction of being one of a few places where a variety of marsupials live in such abundance alongside humans. Living alongside humans has its downsides, and for a group of mammals that raise its young in a front pouch, it’s extremely problematic when cars are involved. Marsupial parents do an amazing job protecting their young, so joeys often survive car accidents. These orphaned animals are then stuck in the now vulnerable confines of their previous safe haven, waiting for what happens next. Luckily for them, a network of “carer” volunteers spend time checking roadkill incidents for pouch survivors. Experienced carers in Australia carry spray paint so that they can let others know which pouches have been checked on the roadside. These “carers” take on the responsibility of raising the young joeys in a self-funded and organized quasi-foster system. The end destination for many of these orphaned joeys are wildlife sanctuaries and rehab centers, which also happened to be our next destination.

The Destinations (Continued)

Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary

Bonorong advertises itself as a wildlife sanctuary, but it more closely resembles someone’s backyard when you drive up. The parking lot is simply a dirt patch aside from the tour vans and some disconcerting snake feed bins. However, once you get inside, it’s hard not to smile at the surroundings. Upon entry, you are greeted by 130 free-roaming kangaroos. These kangaroos are of the Forest variety and look more like they are ready for a nap than prepared to box any visitors. I was quick to take advantage of the complimentary “Roo-feed” so that the Kangaroos wouldn’t go hungry. Harriet was less keen to get up close and personal given her storied family history with Kangaroos, which according to family legend involved her dad sacrificing himself to enter into the boxing ring to save the family from a lone roo who took particular issue with the Prior clan. 

Aside from the Roos, Bonorong has a series of less approachable visitors including wombats, Tassie devils, and an eclectic mix of animals on the mend from various injuries. Normally, zoos (and zoo equivalents) give me the heebie-jeebies, but Bonorong made me feel like I was paying to spectate the rehab process. Unfortunately, our visit was cut short by a mildly terrifying thunderstorm, but we escaped Bonorong without becoming snake feed, and for that we were thankful. 

Hobart and the Surrounds

After our collective experience in Launceston, the bar for cities in Tasmania was set pretty low. Our ride into Hobart from Bonorong coincided with a series of flash floods which made for some sketchy driving in what would have been a picturesque series of vineyards that lead into Tassie’s capital city. Hobart is located on the south side of the Island at the mouth of the Derwent River, which empties into the Southern Ocean. Hobart, which serves as a launch-pad for many Antarctic expeditions, kind of feels as if Seattle and San Francisco had a child. There are lots of yuppies cycling to work, breweries, and generally good vibes (the 9pm sunset didn’t hurt). If we were to come back in 10 years, I would imagine the housing prices would double and they’d probably be starting to build an REI. Hobart was to serve as our home base as we wrapped up our Tassie journey, and I wasn’t complaining. 

Tasman National Park

After a series of self-guided days, we decided it was time for someone else to do the planning. We signed up for a sea-kayaking tour of the Tasman Peninsula, which was about a 90-min drive from the city. The drive was along a stunning and sparsely populated coastline dotted with oyster farms, vineyards, and small coffee shops. We met our guides at the Tasman National Park, and quickly set-off with our motley crew of British retirees, professional female basketball players, and a rather indignant Polish duo on their gap year. Our goal for the day was to see a series of sea cliffs about two miles from our starting point that are full of seals, sea lions, and if we’re lucky, Southern right whales. Our Aussie guide (shoutout Damo!) had warned us that weather conditions might not allow us to see the cliffs, but like any 20-something-year-old boy I figured nothing bad could possibly happen. Oh but the sea was angry that day my friends (for all you Seinfeld enthusiasts), and the five-foot swells had other ideas. As we bounced over one swell over another, I was having an absolute belter of a time and could hardly hold back my smile as we were splashed and tossed around the peninsula. Unfortunately, the group of septuagenarian retirees were not having as much fun, and the Polish boat seemed to be headed back to shore. After I lost my co-pilot to seasickness, I knew our dreams of reaching the cliffs were all but finished. Our Aussie guide thought the same, and directed us to a protected bay so we could count our wounded. 

On shore, the day took a decidedly more relaxed turn. Our guide fed us lunch and hot beverages while he explained the natural history of the area. Damo didn’t seem to just know the typical tour guide facts, but appeared to really understand the way the whole ecosystem worked. He explained how the westward La Nina winds had changed the weather patterns on the bay dramatically over the past year, and detailed generational sea eagle familes he’d seen grow up in the area for the last eight years. On our return journey through the much more protected bay, he pointed out a sea eagle’s nest which more closely resembled a tree house than it did a typical birds nest. He explained that these remarkable structures can be used by the same family of birds for hundreds of years. It was humbling to see someone study and, once again, care for the environment which their livelihood depended on. By day’s end, we were remarkably exhausted but nonetheless thrilled with how much we’d seen and learned, regardless of the notable absence of sea cliffs and seals. 

Tassie Closing Thoughts

As we prepare to leave our first destination, I can’t help but wonder what this place will look like in 10 years. It’s obvious that the area around Hobart is undergoing some serious growth, and it’s natural to see why. It’s beautiful, relatively cheap, and just thoroughly charming. In the US, I would be seriously worried about how development would be handled so the proverbial suburban sprawl doesn’t replace the outstanding wilderness areas. However, in Tassie, I have hope that the locals will be better carers for the natural world than what we’re used to back home. 

Up next, we’re headed to the comparable metropolis of Melbourne where we’ll be watching some tennis and doing some more urban exploring. If you are miraculously still reading this, please send over some coffee recs and we’ll do our best reviews. 

Thanks for reading.

Andrew & Harriet